Questions about upgrading from t5i to 6D Mark ii

Discussion in 'Canon EOS Digital SLRs' started by phkc070408, Oct 13, 2019.

  1. phkc070408

    phkc070408 New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2019
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    Equipment:
    Canon t5i, Tameron B008 18-270mm, Tameron B023 10-24mm
    I have a t5i, a 1.6x APS-C and 2 Tameron EF-S lenses, the B008 18-270mm and the B023 10-24mm.
    I'm thinking about upgrading to a full frame, then6D Mark ii, but I have a few questions:

    I understand a little bit of how a full frame works in comparison to a 1.6X, in that the same image taken on a 1.6X camera would be a cropped version of the same image in a full frame becasue of the sensor size and the light rays near the outside of the full frame not being picked up on the 1.6x sensor.

    1. Will my current lenses still work? I understand that the corners will be dark and I would have to crop the images, thus I would really be using it like a 1.6x. My reasons for doing this would be upfront costs. I would definitely get new proper EF lenses in the near future, but it would be easier to convince my wife to let me get it if I didn't we didn't have to drop so much coin right away.

    2. The lense I was considering was the Tameron B028, an 1n-400mm EF mount. Would the 18mm in a full frame be close in terms of zoom to the 10mm in the 1.6X APS-C that I'm using now?
     

  2. johnsey

    johnsey Site Moderator Staff Member Site Supporter

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    5dMk4, 5dsR, 5dMk2, 20D, 70-200 2.8L IS, 100mm 2.8 Macro USM, 50mm 1.4, 85mm 1.8, 17-40mm 4.0L, TS-E 24mm 3.5L II, Rokinon 14mm 2.8; Pixma Pro-100
    All lenses mentioned for Tamron including the 18-400 are Di II which is their crop sensor mount. You would have to purchase new lenses for the 6D all these will not work on it. Don't bother trying to do math on the whole crop discussion. 20mm is 20mm the zoom doesn't change your crop sensor just is smaller and will give you a cropped image at that magnification. So it will look wider on full frame, not closer or further away.

    I always try to push people to full frame EF mount lenses even on a crop body so that you don't need to repurchase. I also advise away from swiss army type lenses, if it tries to do everything like be wide and extreme telephoto, it will be ok at everything it does but not great. You are better off slowly building a kit of lenses for your needs, primes are great and will out perform many zooms in sharpness and speed, (wide aperture) . Zooms will typically better performers if kept to shorter ranges. If you look at my gear I have several primes, and a few L series zooms for these reasons. I'll step off the soap box now.
     
  3. phkc070408

    phkc070408 New Member

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    Canon t5i, Tameron B008 18-270mm, Tameron B023 10-24mm
    Hi there and thank you for the help. I was afraid you would say all of this.

    I’m really going to have a hard time justifying this to my wife since my t5i still works perfect.

    As far as the “Swiss Army” mount lenses, I just really hate having to carry 2 lenses and having to swap them out.

    Thanks again!!
     
  4. GDN

    GDN Well-Known Member

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    And I will jump up on the soap box.

    The thoughts that I am thinking off is what is your current camera not giving you that you are looking for?


    I understand the swapping out lenses can be a little frustrating, and leaving your one lens does everything on is a easier option, but I don't see how moving to full frame will really improve this. There are advantages as well as disadvantages to full frame. What I would suggest, is that make a mental note of the focal range that you use the most, and buy a good quality zoom lens that covers that range. Keep that lens on your camera, and swap it out if and when you need a different focal length. If possible, buy a full frame lens, so you are a little more future proof. Good glass is worth it, and you will see the difference straight away.

    Gary
     
  5. Craig Sherriff

    Craig Sherriff Well-Known Member Site Supporter

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    60D, 10D, 50D 1dmark3, T70, AV1, lenses ranging from 28mm to 600 mm, canonet Junior, Canonet QL 25, Mamiya C3 and 3 lens sets,Mamiya 645 pro TL and 3 lenses. Pentax MG and various lenses, Toyoview 4 * 5 inch large format camera,Calimat C1 8*10 inch ultra large format camera.
    phkc070408, I have one question, why do you really need to get a full frame camera, I don't wish to sound like a nagging wife but you already have a excellent one to begin with.
    I have a 60 and a 1D mark 3, I use the 60D far more than the 1D mark 3.
    The 60D was owned by a pro wedding photographer, so a crop C sensor can be at times compatible to to a full frame depending on the usage needed.
    To begin with I suggest you look at all the photos you have taken and see what focal lengths you use, this will help you decide what lenses you may need to look at.
    I see you want a 400mm so may I suggest instead of buying a new lens, look at buying a 2X extender or a 1.4X extender.
    The advantages of a extender is your 18 - 270 mm will become a 36 - 540 mm with the 2X and 25.2 - 378 mm with the 1.4X but you will loose 2 stops of light with the 2X and 1 stop of light with the 1.4X but the camera you have will easily handle that. Added advantages are cheaper than a new lens , resulting photos are excellent, tell the wife it is a useful accessory and not a new lens, may cut down the nagging over the purchase.
    With just your 18 - 270mm and the extender you can travel light, this could also be another reason to keep the lady of house onboard.
    Now to throw a fly into the ointment, may I also suggest a 50mm F1.8, a excellent walk around lens and very cheap especially if you pick one second hand.
    I hope this help and all the best with the wife.
     
  6. phkc070408

    phkc070408 New Member

    Joined:
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    Equipment:
    Canon t5i, Tameron B008 18-270mm, Tameron B023 10-24mm
    Honestly, I was thinking that a Full Frame camera would give better quality pictures than a cropped sensor camera does, I was assuming that I was missing part of the picture, around the edges, but from what it sounds like, Using a Di 11 lens with a Di 11 Camera produces no loss, only everything is at a smaller scale. That said, the whole thing was about me not understanding how it worked.

    My camera does a great job & I've gotten some really good shots out of it.

    One final question: If a Di 11 camera with a matching lens is just as good as a Full Frame set, Why am manufacture two different versions, other than for marketing purposes?
     
  7. Craig Sherriff

    Craig Sherriff Well-Known Member Site Supporter

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    60D, 10D, 50D 1dmark3, T70, AV1, lenses ranging from 28mm to 600 mm, canonet Junior, Canonet QL 25, Mamiya C3 and 3 lens sets,Mamiya 645 pro TL and 3 lenses. Pentax MG and various lenses, Toyoview 4 * 5 inch large format camera,Calimat C1 8*10 inch ultra large format camera.
    My I suggest you ask johnsey as this his his area of expertise, the way I see this is your camera produces high quality photos already, what is the need for a more professional and technical setup, if it is for a specific task then may I suggest you talk to a camera shop who specializes in this type of equipment , their advice would be more pertinent than the general advice we give on the forum.
    Not only about the equipment you have inquired about but also the printing needs to reproduce the quality of prints you wish to achieve, hope this helps a bit, Craig S.
     
  8. GDN

    GDN Well-Known Member

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    I am sure that there are technical reasons that I am not aware of with the comparison between aps-c and full frame. But to be honest with you, I only shot asp-c. The only thing where I get held back with this format is low light shooting, and I do actually do a lot of it. Dusk, dawn, and night time. I do find it frustrating with the smaller format and with noise appearing at a lower ISO level compared to a full frame camera. For that reason, I am really thinking of buying a used full frame camera to see the difference for myself. Also what helps me here, is that all of my EF lenses are full frame compatible.

    Gary
     
  9. johnsey

    johnsey Site Moderator Staff Member Site Supporter

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    5dMk4, 5dsR, 5dMk2, 20D, 70-200 2.8L IS, 100mm 2.8 Macro USM, 50mm 1.4, 85mm 1.8, 17-40mm 4.0L, TS-E 24mm 3.5L II, Rokinon 14mm 2.8; Pixma Pro-100
    I would not say that they are just as good, but they are capable of good results. I don't have much experience with Tamron, but i looked up your 18-270 and these cons in a review just to show an example.
    • Rather soft at telephoto, especially wide open
    • Strong distortion across most of the range (pincushion effect)
    • Chromatic aberration at each end of the zoom (most pronounced at telephoto)
    • Slower autofocus than its peers
    For example my 70-200 2.8 L IS has weather sealing, minimal CA, rarely noticeable distortion, very sharp through apertures range, and 2.8 available through zoom range (not variable aperture like you 3.5-6.3). So there are noticeable differences going from a plastic $200 crop lens to a $2000 full frame lens. Higher end lenses will generally be sharper less distortion, less prone to flare and chromatic aberration, and more ruggedly built. Primes do things zooms really can't, pick up a 50mm 1.4 or 1.2L and shoot portraits wide open, that smooth bokeh is not something you can get from your zooms. I avoided saying the 50mm 1.8 which i do like for a $100 lens because it is very soft wide open and the 1.4 which is 3x the price is well worth the purchase since the biggest use for this lens IMHO is portraits.

    DSLR bodies are the same way, the higher end you go the better performance from the sensor, such as of ISO, frames per second, etc. You also get weather sealing and more and more features and customization.

    At the end of the day there are people with different levels of needs and different pocket books. Those that can afford it or work with the camera for a living will obviously invest in higher end gear which has less limitations than the lower prices one because they want to make sure they get the shot.
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2019
    rayallen likes this.
  10. rayallen

    rayallen Well-Known Member Site Supporter

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    Very well explained, Johnsey. In the end it comes down to "You get what you pay for". You can't escape the fact that good gear costs more.
    If you can afford it then that is fine. If you can't then you just have to make the best of what you have and work that little bit harder to cope with its limitations.
    I have been doing that for years. :D
     
    Craig Sherriff likes this.

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