Canon 70-200mm lens and Camera Body Question

Discussion in 'Canon Lens Discussion' started by Mark Elizondo, Jul 7, 2019.

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  1. Mark Elizondo

    Mark Elizondo New Member

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    Canon E0S 800D + kit
    CANON ZOOM 70-200mm Ultra sonic
    Hi all
    I have the Canon 70-200mm lens and an EOS 800D. Are they both compatible? I find that the images are not so sharp. What am i doing wrong? or should i get another body?
    Mark
     

  2. GDN

    GDN Active Member

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    Which model of 70-200mm do you have?

    Any chance of posting a couple of images so we can have a quick look at.

    Gary
     
  3. Mark Elizondo

    Mark Elizondo New Member

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    Canon E0S 800D + kit
    CANON ZOOM 70-200mm Ultra sonic
    Hi Gary
    I have the 67 MM 1:4
     
  4. Mark Elizondo

    Mark Elizondo New Member

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    CANON ZOOM 70-200mm Ultra sonic
    I can't seem to upload an image.
     
  5. GDN

    GDN Active Member

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    What error message are you getting when you try to upload an image?

    Gary
     
  6. johnsey

    johnsey Site Moderator Staff Member Site Supporter

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    5dMk2, 20D, 70-200 2.8 L IS, 100mm 2.8 Macro USM, 50m 1.4, 85mm 1.8, 17-40mm 4.0 L, Rokinon 14mm 2.8; Pixma Pro-100
    Hi Mark, sounds like you have one of the Canon 70-200 L 4.0 lenses they do make it with and without IS. Canon L lenses are great lenses, and this should be sharp. Even the entry level cameras should produce images that are sharp. Is the camera and lens both new to you? Are they both new or is one used? Is every image soft? How soft is it? It could be a number of things.

    1. Your lens could be faulty
    2. It could be back/front focusing a little bit, higher end cameras I know allow micro adjustment for the lens, not sure thats available on that camera.
    3. DO you have IS? Using IS in situations where it is not needed can actually introduce softness, IS basically creates small vibrations to counter act handheld camera shake at very low shutter speeds.
    4. You have a longer heavy lens here, if your seeing things are not share are you using shutter speeds of 1/100 or slower in most cases? This would cause camera shake, good rule of thumb without IS on the lens is to use a shutter speed the reciprocal of the length or faster.
    So 200mm would be 1/200th or faster to freeze camera shake.
    5. RAW images, if your pixel peeping at a raw image and comparing to a processed JPG you will notice a little softnes, as they will not process any of the automatic processing applied when you shoot in JPG mode, this allows the user to aply their own sharpening to taste in post processing.
     
  7. Mark Elizondo

    Mark Elizondo New Member

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    Canon E0S 800D + kit
    CANON ZOOM 70-200mm Ultra sonic
    Thanks Johnsey.
    1. How can I get this checked?
    2. ok - not much i can do about that.
    3. What is IS? is that in the camera setting?
    4. Most of the photos were 1/800
    5. Will try RAW
     

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  8. Mark Elizondo

    Mark Elizondo New Member

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    Canon E0S 800D + kit
    CANON ZOOM 70-200mm Ultra sonic
    Johnsey
    The camera is 6 months old and the lens is old - I bought second hand. I thought the lens would be good for sports, but it's not. If they are slow moving and still I still seem to get some softness to it.
    when I bought the lens from another photographer, he recommended I upgrade the camera body - could that be it?

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/jYS6Rqwshk4Gdwbk7
     
  9. johnsey

    johnsey Site Moderator Staff Member Site Supporter

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    5dMk2, 20D, 70-200 2.8 L IS, 100mm 2.8 Macro USM, 50m 1.4, 85mm 1.8, 17-40mm 4.0 L, Rokinon 14mm 2.8; Pixma Pro-100
    Looking at the 3 photos I am ruling out any issues with the lens or camera at the moment. I don't feel like you need to upgrade the camera until you mastered the features. 1/800 is quick enough you should be able to freeze the surfers, I think focusing may have go confused on what to focus on. The zoomed in one has a guy who may be a hair soft, but he is still rather small in the shot and the waves are moving and so is he, so the focus is constantly changing autofocus could have just got it wrong. You should read the manual about the servo mode for action shots and between that and being able to shoot 6fps you should be able to freeze a sharp shot of a surfer zoomed in. You can also go the other direction and change focus to a single focus point and snap away as he travels across that focus point.

    Lets talk a about the google posted image, there is a lot going on here and if you have multiple focus points on it probably keyed in on some lettering on shirts some kids heads and tried to average it. This is why I prefer middle focus point most of the time and adjust the crop while still holding shutter halfway so it doesn't re-focus. You should be able to see what your focus points are locked onto in lightroom.
    The other thing here is the issue of depth of field, you wont be able to have the kids closest to you and the kids further back in focus. A smaller aperture (bigger f stop number) will allow more of the image in focus. So for this shot you could have used one of the focus points on the closest kid got him sharp and used maybe a f11 to get much of the group close pretty sharp and let the rest fall off. Read up on depth of field a bit.

    IS - Image stabilization, a few switches will be on lens, you should research them and when to use them.
     

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  10. Mark Elizondo

    Mark Elizondo New Member

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    Equipment:
    Canon E0S 800D + kit
    CANON ZOOM 70-200mm Ultra sonic
    hi Johnsey - your advice is awesome. Thanks so much. Am still learning how to use the lens - the one of the kids in green I really like because of the variance in depth of field. I did not want all of them to be in focus.
     

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