Canon R - Viewfinder black screen

Discussion in 'Canon EOS R Series' started by waer01, Nov 19, 2020.

  1. waer01

    waer01 New Member

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    Hi,
    Anyone can suggest what issue or setting might be that when you look through viewfinder there is a black screen until you slightly press some button? I do not remember this happening before. Already tried resetting default camera settings and upgrading firmware to latest.
     

  2. Caladina

    Caladina Active Member

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    Canon 18-45mm m, Canon 55-200mm m, Canon 22mm m, Canon 28mm m macro,
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    7artisans 7.5mm m, Laowa 100mm macro ef, laowa 9mm zeroD m, Vintage M42 Lenses:
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    power saving or eco mode?
    it might also be screen time out,
    i'm guessing from the M50 menus i dont have an R
     
  3. waer01

    waer01 New Member

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    thanks, I actually found that eco mode was off already but viewfinder was set to go off in 3 minutes which I disabled. but still it does not seem to be related to these settings and narrowed it down to being some issue with a manual mode. when I switch to automatic mode it is fine and as soon as you place your eye over viewfinder the view apears imediatelly.
    Then I have another question maybe you might help. on auto modes it does not focus the whole area for some reason and edges are blurred out. I tried different AF settings with no luck... is there a trick to make canon r focus whole area rather than middle, etc.. ? I am using it with a 100mm macro lens to zoom in.
     
  4. johnsey

    johnsey Site Moderator Staff Member Site Supporter

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    The Canon R uses a duel pixel on sensor system which essentially makes 88% of your frame the focusing grid giving you 5655 focus point, focusing on the R is more advanced than the DSLRs by canon.

    With other cameras this is a grid of focus points (be it 9 or 60 points), the center point being the most accurate.
     
    Last edited: Nov 23, 2020
  5. johnsey

    johnsey Site Moderator Staff Member Site Supporter

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    I fear the issue may not be so much the camera or lens but the process. Now there are different modes for focusing and you can review the manual for how each of them is designed. By design, the whole frame may not be razor sharp all the way through. Despite the camera and the focusing method. You / or the camera pick a spot to focus from, the camera or you focus to get the spot sharp. Depending on the aperture used and the distance from subject you will get a certain depth of field. You can look up calculators for this. If you are shooting wide open and close to the object it is probably mm of DOF (depth of field), this is why eyes can be sharp but not ears on close up portraits shot wide open. Shooting stopped down and far away we are talk many meters. Now I suspect this may be part of your struggle. With DOF it is 1/3 in front of the used focus point, 2/3 behind the object.
     
  6. waer01

    waer01 New Member

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    I guess this focus is a bit hard to adjust because of macro shooting? My wife is a dentist and does close up teeth photos. That's why a macro 100mm lens is used along with external attached macro mt-24ex flash. Manual mode with ISO level adjusted always worked just fine and everything was razor sharp and focused. Just recently this issue with viewfinder appeared on manual mode and I decided to check which auto mode might do the job rather than manual. I am not photography expert (probably below noob level lol) and neither is she. I tried all focusing modes on P mode but all are rather targeted to certain area or point of focus. She just needs a close up all image to be focused.. or at least 90% (very corners can be left out - not a problem). What auto mode would you suggest to set-up for this scenario with 100mm lens? I could try original R lens but then mt-24ex flash cannot be mounted due to diameter of the lens.. :( So I am kind of lost due to lack of knowledge in photography and so many parts raising questions where the actual issue is.. Maybe you can recomend auto mode for macro ?
     
  7. johnsey

    johnsey Site Moderator Staff Member Site Supporter

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    Its not a mater of AF verses manual, or even the AF mode, I would turn off tracking personally and just make sure to shoot at least 1/100 or so to freeze movement of their face or hand shake.


    I would stop the lens down and use f8 or f11 if you are that close to the teeth f2.8 will give you a faction of an inch before it falls out of focus. Flash and ISO can be used to get you the right amount of light given the other settings.
    https://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html
    upload_2020-11-23_15-39-22.png
    upload_2020-11-23_15-39-4.png
     
  8. Caladina

    Caladina Active Member

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    Canon 18-45mm m, Canon 55-200mm m, Canon 22mm m, Canon 28mm m macro,
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    7artisans 7.5mm m, Laowa 100mm macro ef, laowa 9mm zeroD m, Vintage M42 Lenses:
    Ashi Super - Takumar 1.8 / 55mm
    for teeth i would use manual mode set the ƒ to 8 and the shutter speed to 250 ( i'm guessing you should be pretty well lit as a dentist ) then see how much iso you need to get the image bright (use the histogram in the evf).
    using single point AF on single shot not servo take a picture, see what the grain/quality is like, (show us the results too, best way for us to judge,
    dropping the ss down will make the image brighter and you can then drop the iso down if you were getting too much grain.

    if you having problems with the auto focus locking on to other items like lips ot vise grips (ok i thought that was funny) then put the focus into manual, if you having trouble using the dial to zone in on the pearly whites move your camera and head back and forward to focus in manual mode, this works good as it leaves the hands steady to fire the shutter where as using the ring focus you might be fighting muscles in your hands.

    if that fails pull out the teeth, pop them in an envelope and i'll photograph then and send them back with the pictures
     

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