Eos- M sharpening blur.

Discussion in 'Canon EOS M Series' started by Brandon De Los Angeles, Apr 11, 2021.

  1. Brandon De Los Angeles

    Brandon De Los Angeles New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2021
    Messages:
    3
    Equipment:
    Eos-M
    Hey, I am new to photography and recently got an EOS-M camera, from 2012, and I am having some issues with the blur. I personally like an extremely blurry background and get one when I look at the screen. But when i take the photo it is not as blurry. The lens I am using is the Canon ef-m kit lens 18mm-55mm. I understand that a more open aperture and a longer focal length increases the blur strength/ shallows the depth of field. It just seems like the camera is adjusting the blur on its own. I would love some insight.

    Just to add I was doing some experimenting and when I widen the aperture it seems like the camera doesn't do any correction, but when I narrow it that is when the correction kicks in.
    First image is before I take the photo. Second is the end result. before.jpg after.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2021

  2. Caladina

    Caladina Active Member

    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2020
    Messages:
    903
    Equipment:
    Canon M50
    Canon 18-45mm m, Canon 18-150mm m, Canon 55-200mm m, Canon 22mm m, Canon 28mm m macro,
    Sigma 100-400c ef, Sigma 18-35mm art ef,
    7artisans 7.5mm m, Laowa 100mm macro ef, laowa 9mm zeroD m, Vintage M42 Lenses:
    Ashi Super - Takumar 1.8 / 55mm,
    ] Welcome to the forum


    you can get blur from a lens with a low ƒ stop like a ƒ1.4 as the depth of field is quite a thin sliver or you can use a higher ƒ stop but you will want to have the subject further way from the background objects
    you can try this by putting an object in the middle of a room or scene then focusing on it and taking the image then compare it to when the object is closer to the background
    the other factor is the distance from camera to the subject, if you are further from the subject then the subject and background seem closer together thus reducing the depth of field effect
    so if you have a lens thats not an instant bokeh monster (ƒ1.4) then your ideal position is get closer to your subject and have the background further away.

    The image below shows the thin sliver of a ƒ1.8 you can see that anything infront of or behind it is out of focus, the larger the ƒ number the bigger that slice become capturing more stuff in focus

    M50 with takumar 55mm ƒ1.8
    bokeh3.jpg

    for this one i actually de-focused the camera without a subject to get the background how i wanted it, switched the camera to manual focus so the focus wouldn't change.
    then i placed the subject in the plain of focus

    same camera and lens
    bokeh2.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2021
  3. Brandon De Los Angeles

    Brandon De Los Angeles New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2021
    Messages:
    3
    Equipment:
    Eos-M
    Thank you for the advice and reply. I am planning on getting a new lens that gets a much lower f stop. I also really like your second image, looks great. For now I will just lower the brightness in photoshop. Thanks again!
     
  4. GDN

    GDN Well-Known Member

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    Jul 22, 2018
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    Location:
    South Island, NZ
    Equipment:
    A little Canon stuff
    I think that you will find that the 18-55mm at 55mm, you are shooting at f5.6 wide open. So you will not get a blurry background. As Caladina suggested, you need a faster lens. Maybe a EF 50mm f1.8 is what you are looking for.

    Gary
     
  5. Caladina

    Caladina Active Member

    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2020
    Messages:
    903
    Equipment:
    Canon M50
    Canon 18-45mm m, Canon 18-150mm m, Canon 55-200mm m, Canon 22mm m, Canon 28mm m macro,
    Sigma 100-400c ef, Sigma 18-35mm art ef,
    7artisans 7.5mm m, Laowa 100mm macro ef, laowa 9mm zeroD m, Vintage M42 Lenses:
    Ashi Super - Takumar 1.8 / 55mm,
    you can still get blury background with higher ƒ stops you just need to be close to subject reletive to the background
    400mm @ ƒ7.1
    robin.jpg
     
  6. Caladina

    Caladina Active Member

    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2020
    Messages:
    903
    Equipment:
    Canon M50
    Canon 18-45mm m, Canon 18-150mm m, Canon 55-200mm m, Canon 22mm m, Canon 28mm m macro,
    Sigma 100-400c ef, Sigma 18-35mm art ef,
    7artisans 7.5mm m, Laowa 100mm macro ef, laowa 9mm zeroD m, Vintage M42 Lenses:
    Ashi Super - Takumar 1.8 / 55mm,
    the other thing here is the mention of the difference between the image on screen and the final image taken regards to the blurry
    This is what depth of field preview button is for, not sure which M you have but in mine its in the menu so you can assign it to a button
    when you press the depth of field preview the camera will open up the iris / aperture blades to show you the depth of field you are going to get in your image, normally the iris / blades are closed down while you are focusing etc then they open to take the picture.
    it might not be 100% correct but it gives you the reason why there is a difference btween the two that you mentioned in your original post
     
  7. Brandon De Los Angeles

    Brandon De Los Angeles New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2021
    Messages:
    3
    Equipment:
    Eos-M
    I have the first Eos-M. I got it because I am a student with a tight budget. Thinking about getting Magic Lantern for it but I do not want to risk corrupting anything at the moment because I can't afford a replacement. I looked at the setting and found what you are talking about. Thanks for the info.
     
  8. Caladina

    Caladina Active Member

    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2020
    Messages:
    903
    Equipment:
    Canon M50
    Canon 18-45mm m, Canon 18-150mm m, Canon 55-200mm m, Canon 22mm m, Canon 28mm m macro,
    Sigma 100-400c ef, Sigma 18-35mm art ef,
    7artisans 7.5mm m, Laowa 100mm macro ef, laowa 9mm zeroD m, Vintage M42 Lenses:
    Ashi Super - Takumar 1.8 / 55mm,
    i took a look at the magic lantern thing on an eos m, sounds like a mess to me,
     

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